There are three kinds of wedges in common use today:|
- Pitching wedge
- Over the years, this has become less a wedge than a
higher-loft continuation of the numbered irons. Most pitching wedges
today come as part of a set of irons. They typically have the same length
as the 9-iron in the set, and the same swingweight or only slightly
higher. Their loft and sole shape are a logical extrapolation from the
other irons. In short, they're not really a "wedge", and I won't say much
more about them here.
- Sand wedge
- A heavier club, designed for the major purpose of escaping
from greenside bunkers.
- Lob wedge
- Also generally heavy, its purpose is for short, high pitches
that land softly and don't roll much after landing.
Sand wedges and lob wedges should be cut to the same length as the 9-iron and
pitching wedge used by the golfer, unless there is specific reason not to.
Don't worry about the swingweight; it will be distinctly heavier than the
other clubs, but that's not a problem. These wedges are seldom used with a
normal-length, normal-speed swing anyway, so a markedly different swingweight
isn't a big deal.
Some considerations in the design of wedges:
- This is the most important single feature of a wedge. Lob wedges are
generally higher loft than sand wedges. Sand wedges have lofts between 52
and 58 degrees, and lob wedges between 58 and 64 degrees. (Yes, there are
clubs outside these ranges, but they're distinct outliers.)
Try to choose the lofts on your wedges to avoid "gaps" or "doubling". For
instance, if you have a 48-degree pitching wedge and a 60-degree lob
wedge, it doesn't make much sense to get a 58-degree sand wedge. It would
"double" for the loft of the lob wedge, so one of the clubs is probably
unnecessary. Instead, go for more like a 54- or 55-degree sand wedge.
Alternatively, you could get a 56- to 58-degree sand wedge and trade in
your lob wedge for:
- An even higher loft, in the 62-64 range, or
- No lob wedge at all, since the sand wedge can double as a slightly
strong lob wedge. There's no law that requires a lob wedge, and in
fact most golfers don't carry them.
- Sole shape
- The second most important characteristic of a wedge is the
bounce of its sole.
- A sand wedge requires a large bounce (8 to 15 degrees), so that it
doesn't bury in the sand.
- A lob wedge wants to have very little bounce (about the same as a
pitching wedge) so you don't skull the ball off a tight lie.
Unfortunately, too many heads with the loft (and advertising intent) of a
lob wedge are made with a bounce more appropriate for a sand wedge. This
can be both a curse and a blessing. Of course, you have to be more
careful when chipping with such a wedge, especially from the fairway or
hardpan. On the other hand, it can be handy to have a super-loft sand
wedge if you're in a bunker with a very high lip to an elevated green. I
own such a wedge, and can personally attest to its usefulness in such
- Weight placement
- I find absolutely no advantage to a "cavity back" in a
club lofted more than 50 degrees. The heel-toe weighting at this loft
buys very little, but a very low CG is important. For that reason, I
prefer wedges to have a large, heavy sole flange and a thin, flat upper
back. The Cleveland wedges are paradigms of this design, though more and
more manufacturers are catching on. (I ought to add "again", since this
was the most common wedge design before the advent of peripheral
weighting. Sometimes the old ways are best.)
It's worth pointing out one reason that most golfers don't carry a lob wedge.
It's not very easy to use, and it's as important to know when not to use it
as to know how to use it.
The most important part of using any wedge is to keep the hands ahead of the
clubhead right through impact. This assures hitting down on the ball;
"scooping" with a wedge is a sure-fire recipe for a terrible shot: fat, or
skulled, or a little pop-up from a fluffy lie. This is especially true if you
have a sand-wedge style bounce. Keeping the hands ahead of the clubhead will
reduce the effective bounce at impact, and allow the leading edge of the
clubface to get under the ball.
When should you have second thoughts about using a lob wedge?
- From a lie in the rough where you ball is sitting above the ground. It is
possible to slide an extreme-loft club right under the ball and get no
forward motion at all.
- From an uphill lie. Remember that the slope of the hill adds to the
effective loft of the club. I have hit a lob wedge from an uphill lie,
only to have the ball go almost straight up, land within a couple of feet
of its starting point, and bounce down the hill and away from the target.
- From a tight lie on hardpan, especially if the club has a bounce flange.
I'd like to thank Bob Dietrich for these suggestions on "how" and "when not
to". I had given up on my lob wedge for several years, because it left me
worse off more often than better off. Bob pointed out why it's valuable on
the courses that we both play. I now have a 64-degree lob-sand wedge, and I
Last modified Dec 4, 1998